Harissa, Kangri, and Pheran; This is winter in Kashmir

At 7.30 am on a snowy December day, Peer Murtaza and two friends join the crowd at Dilshad Restaurant to relish a plate of harisa, a traditional Kashmiri winter breakfast dish. Most tables are taken but the trio find some space, squeeze in and order three plates of the thick meat stew. Kashmir’s long chill stretches from the onset of autumn in September all the way to April, and at their lowest, temperatures can dip to minus 4 degrees Celsius. Every morning during these months, the Dilshad Restaurant — a…

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