Srinagar downtown living in protests and choking pepper gas

The signs of daily life emerge early in Srinagar’s old city, the ground zero of frequent and often violent protests, as shopkeepers assemble the merchandise and ‘harrisa’ shops serve the exquisite mutton delicacy soon after the dawn’s first light. On Monday, as fog enveloped much of the Kashmir region, it was still a pleasant morning in old city neighbourhoods as residents, mostly young men, lined up inside famed eateries for harrisa, served hot and preferred on wintry mornings. A series of bridges over the Jhelum mark a boundary and divide…

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