A pack of stray dogs barked ferociously at cars zipping past the highway. I stopped momentarily before slowly moving ahead, struggling with the thought of whether or not I should be entering the pitch dark and narrow alley which leads to my rented house in an uptown locality of Srinagar. I wanted to be sure no one was lurking in the darkness with a knife or an axe waiting to pounce on a braid chopper or, worse still, confuse me for one. Across the length and breadth of Kashmir, a…
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